Late Dinner at Koi

This evening was another late night at work, and afterward I joined a colleague at nearby Koi on West 40th in midtown, right next to Bryant Park. Koi specializes in Japanese cuisine, particularly sushi, with a California influence. I'm not sure, but I think what that means is that all of the waiters and waitresses are moonlighting while they wait to get their big break into movies or TV, and can break out a portfolio including head shot on a moment's notice.

My friend and I concentrated on the sushi, which was good, but to be sure there was a gap between the food I was eating and the amount of money I paid for it. Clearly one who goes there cannot be satisfied if they think that all the money goes toward ingredients and preparation; I have had equally good sushi here at places where the cost is a third of that at Koi. The secret of enjoying the experience at Koi lies in knowing and enjoying those extra things you are getting for your money.

For starters, there's the interior design of the place, which definitely incorporates LA-inspired aesthetics and attention to fashion detail. Many of the walls are covered with meticulously trimmed miniature bamboo forests, which are attractive and soothing to look at. Fixed along the back wall and covering a good portion of the ceiling there is some kind of treatment that looks like massively enlarged chicken wire, behind which and shining through is a vortex image that serves as the focal point of the restaurant. I'm not sure what it all means, but it must be something pretty clever and profound, and while I am not design-conscious enough to appreciate it I sometimes like to daydream that I am. Sitting in the midst of it gives one the impression that they are smart and sophisticated, and surely that's worth at least a 50% upcharge.

Adding to the atmosphere is the louder-than-usual-for-a-restaurant music, which although not quite the intensity required for a dance floor prompted my friend to remark that the place couldn't decide if it wanted to be a restaurant or a nightclub.

The staff at Koi was obviously screened heavily for aesthetic appeal as well. Not just for the host(ess) positions as usual, but also the wait staff, who all appeared stylish and sleekly dressed. I didn't get a look in the kitchen, but I assume the line cooks would also have been wearing black silk shirts and faux-alligator shoes.

Of course all of this emphasis on style and dare I say superficial features attracts a certain type of patron, of the sort that would tend to appreciate the emphasis on good looks and style. Again, I can't claim to fall into this category, but I can appreciate that paying for the illusion of belonging there even for a few brief moments justifies a higher price.

On the food front, I enjoyed some competently prepared sushi and maki including a rock shrimp California roll that the waitress recommended. I have to admit that the miso soup was probably the best I have had anywhere. I also found that our waitress was more helpful and friendly than I expected (based on the atmosphere I expected haughtines and arrogance). I think I would skip dessert next time, which although compelling in presentation tasted like it was made from pre-fab ingredients chosen for their utility in creating an attractive visual arrangement.