Sunday, October 7, 2007

Dinner at Artisanal

This evening we headed down to Murray Hill for dinner at Artisanal, just off of Park Avenue. This was our second visit since moving here, and when a friend mentioned a recent lunch there earlier in the week we were reminded of how much we enjoyed it the first time, and thus planned a return visit in short order.

If one weren't already aware before entering, it would become quickly apparent that Artisanal is all about cheese in just about every variety imaginable (although centered mostly around French varieties). One interesting feature is the cheese cave, which is an alcove off the main dining room surrounded by refrigerated cheese where you can reserve a table and be ensconced on three sides by dairy. There is also a cheese counter where you can walk in off the street and purchase a block of one of their more than 200 varieties to take home with you.

This evening we decided that we might as well go for the most indulgent cheese experience of all, the fondue. We ordered the specialty of the day, and while I didn't quite catch the whole list of ingredients, I believe the waitress said something about garlic confit. By default they serve it with bread cubes, but you can also order a variety of additional items to bathe in the cheese. We chose apples, crudite, and dried beef slices.

One of the things I like about Artisanal is that they offer wine tastings that include three two-ounce servings. My wife and I like to try different wines but usually a single glass is enough, so this is perfect for us.

Our waitress this evening was clearly new on the job, and she had a lot of trouble recalling the specials for the evening. Not that we minded, but she was clearly a little bit exasperated that she had to keep pulling the note card out of her pocket for reference as she was going through the list. She omitted the game bird du jour that was mentioned in the menu, and when I asked about it the only thing she was clear about was that it had buckshot in it. I had to ask her to repeat what she said because I thought perhaps I had heard incorrectly, but she repeated that indeed it was likely to have buckshot in it, and she thought it was partridge. Apparently they don't stress the game bird part of the menu, since she didn't have anything about it on the card and had to go check with the kitchen about it Given the emphasis on the dangers of residual buckshot in the preparation certainly it seemed like they weren't anxious to push it. Apparently not much of a big seller.

Given the emphasis on cheese and bread, we asked the waitress if there was any way we could get a grilled cheese sandwich for our five-year-old son, which we didn't see on the menu. She indicated that she would check with the chef, and returned a few moments later saying that indeed they could do it since they had a grilled cheese sandwich on the lunch menu. It's a good thing, too, since if she had said no I was inclined to ask to see the chef in person for an explanation about how it could be that the kitchen couldn't turn out a grilled cheese. Not that I would always expect to be able to order something off the menu ala Burger King have-it-your-way, but at a high-caliber outfit like Artisanal I would be surprised if that they couldn't accomodate such a request.

Happily, though, all was harmony as the meal got underway. The fondue was excellent, and after that we ordered the skate wing with fruit and cauliflower as well as the octopus salad. Both were excellent, and just the right light accompaniment to the heaviness of the fondue.

For dessert we decided to go all out and get the chocolate fondue for my wife and son to share, while I got the caramel and praline cheesecake. The fondue was just the right consistency so as to coat the dipping items without to much dripping, with a very refined smooth deep chocolate taste. The marshmallows were particularly popular with the youngest in the family. Likewise the cheesecake was an excellent choice, just the right degree of fluffiness, so that you don't feel like you are eating a brick of cheese and eggs.

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